North Nicosia

Nicosia, Lefkosia or Lefkosa...all names for the last remaining divided city in the world.

The unchanged and timeless Turkish Cypriot Northern half of the city is in direct contrast to the busy, sophisticated Greek Cypriot Southern half, yet both sides have a charm and attraction of their own.

The fact that since 2004 EU citizens are free to cross from one side of the city to the other means that we can now all enjoy Nicosia as a whole and get a better understanding of the Cypriot people and a wider appreciation of Cyprus.

If you travel from the South on foot you can cross at Ledra Palace which is centrally located for the main city shopping areas on both sides of the Green Line. Alternatively, if you prefer to come by car then the Metehan crossing is now fully open with two lanes and passport control on both sides to reduce waiting times.

To cross you will need a valid passport and you will also need to fill in a short visa form which is available from the passport control offices on the Turkish Cypriot half of the border. You will also need to take out Greek Cypriot car insurance if going from North to South and Turkish Cypriot car insurance if going from South to North! Don’t worry you don’t have to buy annual insurance; you can buy it on a daily or monthly basis!

North Nicosia has really changed little over the years, the back streets are ramshackle reminders of a time gone by and where you will still see people living very simple lives. Travelling away from the city centre, especially in the direction of Kyrenia you will see some sophisticated developments taking shape and some stylish homes springing up, but the true heart of the city is where you will find the most interesting and historic features.

The city has been divided effectively since 1963 when separate Greek and Turkish areas were identified; the Green Line was firmly established by a British Military Commander who famously took a map and drew a line with a green pen to divide the city for the sake of peace. The name for the border that divides the two Cypriot communities has been known as the Green Line ever since. The division became absolute and formalised in 1974.

Because the centre of North Nicosia is quite small it’s easy to get around it in a day, though in the heat of the summer sun you will need a few extra refreshment stops!

Visitors can take a walking tour of the city’s sites by following the faded blue line on the pavement, or they can meander around the back streets and side streets, squares and markets at their own pace.

A visit to North Nicosia would be incomplete without a visit to a hammam, the old and new markets and the Selimiye mosque. Hammams are traditional Turkish baths where you can have a steam bath and a massage. The new (newer!) market is a fantastic place to pick up clothes, shoes and textiles for very attractive prices and where lots of genuine fake name-brand items are on sale at bargain prices. The shops display only a selection of their wares outside, so don’t be shy, venture inside and if you can’t find what you’re looking for just ask, chances are they’ll have what you need tucked away somewhere!

The shop owners in Cyprus are always very friendly and welcoming, they don’t mind if you’re just browsing and they’ll go out of their way to help you bringing you new items to try on or to consider. The old indoor market is a fantastic place to pick up fresh local produce, to try before you buy and to get a real feel for Cyprus.

Selimiye Mosque is located between the two markets and is probably North Nicosia’s most prominent landmark. You might be confused when you first see it because it looks like a cross between a Gothic church and a traditional Mosque...well, that’s because that is exactly what it is! The building started out life as a church in 1209 and became a Mosque in 1570 when it was stripped of its Christian decoration and two minarets were added by the Ottomans. You can actually go inside the Mosque to get a closer look at this fascinating building and it is well worth a peek. Be sure to remove your shoes though, and dress conservatively, remain silent as well and please don’t be tempted to take pictures when prayers are in progress.

There are many more sites and sounds and experiences to be had in North Nicosia, there’s fantastic ethnic item and souvenir shopping, jewellery shopping, many cafes and bars to try and lots of museums and galleries. And hopefully one day in our lifetime Ledra Street will be reopened and reunited and those working towards reunification will be rewarded, check out http://www.e-ledra.com/ to find out more.