Castles of Northern Cyprus

TRNC has a wealth of stunning and historically rich towers, walls, Mosques, churches, ruins and castles; possibly the most impressive of which are the trio of Lusignan Gothic Crusader castles: St. Hilarion, Buffavento and Kantara

Though any description of the castles in Northern Cyprus would be incomplete without an examination of Girne castle first.

Girne or Kyrenia Castle is an immense Byzantine structure and it dominates the old harbour in the town. It is well intact and an incredible sight to behold from without and within. Visitors to the castle are rewarded with full access to the entire building and they can scamper around and right up onto the very top unrestricted. Visitors to the harbour area often watch with horror as the plucky castle-goers stand right on the edge of the huge walls looking down at the sea! Parents with young children should maybe consider reins! If you do decide to visit the castle, be sure to go to the Kyrenia Shipwreck Museum inside as well, this is where one of the oldest wrecks ever recovered from the sea is preserved and housed. Once you’re exhausted from climbing all over the huge castle you can retire to the open air centre courtyard and sit peacefully under the trees and enjoy a cool drink.

The entire known history of the town of Kyrenia is linked to the castle; before the Byzantines began constructing it in the 12th century very little was known about Girne at all. It’s thought that the current castle was built on the foundations of a Roman fort. The Lusignans assisted with the construction of the castle (after Guy de Lusignan attacked it in 1191) and both they and the Byzantines - and much much later, the British - used it as a prison! It has also been used as a royal residence, the Ottomans used it to house the tomb of one of their senior generals and today it is of course a living museum. The castle’s structure that you see today was developed by the Byzantines, Lusignans and the Venetians.

To visit St. Hilarion you take the road to Lefkosa (Nicosia) from Girne and head up over the Kyrenia mountain range towards the peaks of Besparmak (five finger mountain) and the castle is signposted off to the west. The road up is a bit scary but well worth the drive for when you get closer to St Hilarion you realise just what an incredible position it’s perched on! Built 2400ft up above the plains before it and seemingly growing out of the rocks around it, St. Hilarion is one of the best castles in the world! A true fairy tale castle that will have both young and old visitors enchanted!

Plan plenty of time to visit the castle as it will take you a good long while to explore all the hidden rooms, tunnels, gardens, views and steep, steep staircases! And trust me, the climb to the very top and out to Prince John’s Tower is worth it! Legend has it that Prince John, nice man that he was, threw two of his bodyguards who he believed were plotting against him, out of the tower and over the cliff to their death. When you venture to the edge of the tower and look down you can share their final view!

St. Hilarion castle was named after a monk who lived and died in a cave on the mountain where it’s built. During the 10th century a monastery was built over the tomb of the Saint and then in 1191 Guy de Lusignan decided he wanted St. Hilarion for himself and ‘dislodged’ the Byzantine leader at the time. He went on to develop the structure into a residence and military outpost.

When the Venetians were in power in Cyprus they left St. Hilarion fall into disrepair and even dismantled it in part. It remained neglected until 1964 when the Turkish Cypriots used it to fend off EOKA inspired attacks and they now use it as a living museum of course. The views from the castle are indescribably incredible and make a visit well worth it.

If you’re travelling to Buffavento from Kyrenia you head out east past Ozankoy and Catalkoy and then instead of turning left towards Acapulco and Turtle Beach you head on up the mountain. Right at the top of the road you’ll see a signpost to Buffavento Kalesi...now you can either park here in the car park and take my challenge of walking all the way to the castle (about 6km) or if you have a sturdy vehicle (or a hire car!) you can drive the rough track to the foot of the mountain on which the castle is built. If you’re visiting in summer you’ll need to drive or you’ll collapse with heat stroke!

You drive and drive or walk and walk for ever before you spot the castle...it’s totally camouflaged among the mountain peaks and when you catch sight of it for the first time I defy you to be anything but blown away! The castle sits atop a sheer 3100ft peak and when you see it you wonder how on earth you’re meant to access it! In fact the final climb up to it (which has to be done on foot, or hand and knees?!) takes about 30 - 40 minutes and you’ll be able to see why the castle needed no other form of protection than its position - as there really is only one way in! Buffavento means wind buffeted and when you visit you’ll see why! It is situated exactly where the warm air rises from the plains, the cool air rises from the sea and it swirls and swirls round the castle. You can reach out and touch the clouds as they circle round you at the top of this amazing castle. Though it is fairly badly preserved it is worth every second and drop of sweat as you will never have see views like it except from inside an aeroplane! Take lots of refreshments with you to sustain you - especially if you walk up - as the only other alternative is returning to the cafe in the car park on the main road some 6km away!

And finally, Kantara...usually accessed from Famagusta or Bogaz, this is often described as the most romantic of the trio of Crusader Lusignan Gothic castles in Northern Cyprus. You can drive it from Kyrenia but it takes at least an hour and a half and the road gets a bit rough along the way! Kantara castle is slightly lower than either St. Hilarion or Buffavento at ‘just’ 2000ft up, and it is the best preserved of the three. Its documented history begins in 1191 when Richard the Lionheart ‘acquired’ it, though it’s believed to have been built around 900. The Lusignans are responsible for rebuilding and expanding it, the Venetians responsible for dismantling it! But despite their best efforts the northern sections of the castle, including an impressive barbican and square tower, are well-preserved. With incredible views of both sides of the Karpas peninsular and Turkey and Syria on a clear day the castle is well worth the trip.

As with all the castles of Northern Cyprus parents need to keep a close eye on children and those who suffer vertigo should hold the hand of someone they trust! There are plenty of precariously located unfenced drops, holes and wall edges to enjoy!